Day 0-1 – The Annapurna Diaries

After a while when you have a great family, fabulous friends, a reasonable income and respectable health we tend to get a tad complacent and take things for granted. Every once in a while we need to get out of our comfort zone and do something that we think isn’t normally possible. 

Its altogether better to shake ourselves up once in a while rather than be shaken up by life with things we cannot control.

This was my motivation to drop everything and head off up north to the Himalayas. The call of the mountains bit me hard and from starting to think of a 3 day trek in Uttarakhand to mulling the altogether too crowded Everest Base Camp, or the Annapurna Base Camp that is full of steps.

I decided to do the slightly longer and more varied/ scenic Annapurna Circuit.

So I’m off today to Kathmandu and drive out 7 hours to Besisahar to start my trek from Syange on the 5th. The Annapurna circuit mini is a classic 10 day 115km trek starting at an altitude of 850mtrs climbing over the Thorong La pass at 5416m. With just a guide and a Kindle for company, Weather, legs and Altitude sickness permitting, I should cross the High pass on 14th April and end the trek at Muktinath/ Jomsom and fly back to Kathmandu via Pokhara.

The weather should range from a warm 25C in the lowlands to a freezing -20C and snowfall as we go higher. 

The Annapurna circuit route map

The trek starts in the Valley of the Marsyangadi River and climbs steadily over the Thorong La with a rapid descent to Muktinath in the Kali Gandaki Gorge. There’ll be long days of walking and longer days of walking but, there’s gonna be apple pie waiting.

As of today, there’s snow on the passes… I’m not sure if I want that snow to remain by the time I get there for the romance, challenge and talking credits of climbing a snow covered pass or let it melt and give my untested and weary legs an easier climb.

Flight to Kathmandu
3rd April 2023

The morning was a little anticlimactic. There was no big sense of excitement as I boarded the flight from Bangalore. On the flight from Delhi to Kathmandu I was looking at everyone boarding and trying to guess what they were going to Nepal for. Trekker, Trekker, School vacation, Vietnamese girls soccer team, Hippie, a dude not showered for a month…

As we approached Kathmandu, we were cruising at about 8000 mtrs we were flying adjacent to thick deep clouds below us as far as the eye could see. And still at that height in the distance we could see massive snow covered peaks rising above those clouds sounding an unheard challenge. Below us were just miles and miles of ridges and canyons, like a crumpled piece of origami – evidence to the brute force of the continental impact that created these mountains. 

To not feel small here is to not feel anything at all

It’s finally dawned upon me, after months of planning, that I was actually going to be alone for 2 weeks starting today.  That itself is probably the biggest challenge. 

Checked in to the Ramada for probably the last warm and soft bed for the next 10 days. I took a walk around the Thamel neighbourhood in search of wool underwear noticing that it looks and feels exactly like any small Indian town Bazaar street. 

Boxers found, I can sleep peacefully. Onward to day 1

The Drive to Besisahar
4th April 2023

Woke up at 4:30 cursing that I couldn’t get back to sleep. Finally dozed off till 6:30. 

Made a choice not to have breakfast at the hotel and got in to drive from Kathmandu (1400mtrs) down to Besisahar (760mtrs)

My “English speaking” guide named Yam is with me chattering away, conjuring visions of a talking tapioca and a fat potato (me). Breakfast was Maggi by the side of the road under the backdrop of the lesser mountains that surround Kathmandu. 

Quite the roller coaster of a drive with roads broken in equal parts by construction and landslides, temperatures climbing to 38 C before we finally reached Besisahar and checked into the New Manaslu Hotel. 

In a dramatic change of weather so manifest of the mountains we had a 15 minute hailstorm here just after we reached with accompanying snowfall visible in the higher regions followed by bright sunny skies. The next few days are going to be telling. 

Is Thorong La going to be a tease…

Nothing to do now but sip on some tea and pray to the weather gods. 

Take a long nap, prepare for tomorrow, the 1st day of trekking. 

Haute Maurienne & Le Tour de France

April 2023

It’s been a great run-up to my 45th Birthday.

  • 6 days
  • 390 kms
  • 9400 mtrs elevation gain
  • 8 Cols

I started to ride a bike about 2.5 years ago so I could keep up with my then 6 year old who started to ride around the block. I quickly upgraded to a Road-bike in about a month having been beautifully upsold from the thought of a new hybrid by the friendly folks at bumsonthesaddle. I did my first 50k and 100k with them shortly after and fell in love with the sport.

For those who know me I was first a biker for about 10 years and a part of a great club called the Bangalore Pandhis.The shift to two wheels and pedal power from riding 1200 cc 160Bhp motors was swift and hard. I was very quickly sucked into the world of cycling with power meters, performance bikes, fancy kits and totally moved on from motorbikes so much so that I sold off my Ducati.

After 2 years of riding, a bunch of tours, the 1st being the Tour of Andamans followed very quickly by the Tour of Goa and then my 1st boot camp with Srinath Rajam at Tiruvannamalai, followed by a bunch of camps in Coonoor, Kotagiri, Valparai, Kodaikanal, Sirsi, to name a few… Structured training with Coach Volker, Strength Training with Coach Sidharth, vengeful attacks by Cheesecakes and Brownies defined these last 2 years.

From my 1st attempt at climbing Nandi on a friend, Arvind Bhateja’s 50th Birthday to culminating finally in a week of climbing at the French Alps in Maurienne its been a fantastic journey on my personal road to freedom.

July 2023 had me riding the French Alps at the same time as the Tour de France with great company Rajesh, Russel Bell, Doc Arvind, Shankar, Mohan and yours truly. Using the Hotel le Marintan in St Michel De Maurienne as our base we had 6 days of riding the Alps with one rest day where we watched the tour ride past us on the Col du Galibier on Day 4. On Day 5 we rode up the Alp d’ Huez before the tour came up accompanied and cheered on by the throngs of folks celebrating and waiting for the tour.

Day 1 Col Du Mont Cenis – 103 kms – 1600m.

An unexpectedly longer warm up session left most of us buggered. But some of the best cycling roads I’ve seen with spectacular views and great Croissants and on the way. The head winds on the way down made you feel wrestling with a bear would have been easier. Let’s see what tomorrow holds for us. The most beautiful ride I’ve ever done in spite of battling with continuous climbing, brutal heat and the most crazy headwinds and gusts I’ve ever seen. Nothing really prepares you for the Alps

Day 2Col Du Telegraphe and Les Lacets de Montvernier – 69 kms – 1500m –

Col Du Telegraphe, Les Lacets Du Montvernier, bike gearing issues, a single speed bike, a flat and sweltering heat.A day for the history books with great company Rajesh, Russel Bell, Doc Arvind, Shankar, Mohan and yours truly

Day 3Col Du Glandon and Col de Croix de la Fer – 89 kms – 2150m –

2150 mtrs of climbing. Last 6 kms of the climb were 3 at 9% + 3 at 11% Long roads with no switchbacks made the 13% climbs look like false flats. There were points towards the top I was wondering what I was doing here. Excruciating fatigue, legs barely moving, the air thin, heat in the mid 30s but, the most beautiful surroundings made it all worth it.  A massive ham and cheese omelette at the top hit the spot before a 30km descent.

Day 4 – Le tour 2022 Allez Allez Allez …

Watching the pros by the side of the road at the Galibier. Incredible day… simply incredible. Drove up halfway to Col du Galibier to watch the Tour thunder by.

Day 5Alpe D’ Huez. TDF Stage 12 2022 – 19 kms – 1127m – Alpe D’ Huez descent – 18kms 490m

To ride the Alpe D’ Huez at any time is an experience you won’t forget. To ride it the day of the tour is simply magic.
Celebrations throughout. People cheering us on pouring water on our heads to cool us down. 

Watched Pidcock with an epic climb at the finish line Must have been the slowest descent ever. Coming down with thousands of other cyclists who had come up to watch the race and the Pro Convoys

Day 6 The Galibier – 35kms – 1215m –

Last ride of this trip
Couldn’t have asked for more. Absolutely beautiful, entirely above the tree line. 
Fantastic vistas and smoking gradients. Great finish to an epic riding holiday

Day 7 Plan D’ Aval – 60kms – 1300m –

Encore – Just one bonus ride to wrap up the week at the alps 
A total of approximately 400kms and 9000mtrs of climbing in total
A tough but rewarding week

Roots… In search of an Identity.

Pudugramam, May 2011

I’ve been asked multiple times where I’m from and I would normally go “Bangalore” to which people would ask “but, what about before that?”, “where are your parents from?”… And I would wonder if that was really important. I’m here in Bangalore right now and have been for most of my life or at least as far as you know me… my passport says I’m from Bangalore, so what more do you want to know? 

My mom’s mom was from Kannur, Mom’s dad was from Palakkad and Dad’s family were from Chennai… or Neyveli…. or somewhere in Tamil Nadu. I also heard various allusions to a place called Aruppukottai in Tamil Nadu but wasn’t sure if anyone had roots there or was it simply a waypoint that one of my aged ancestors used in their great migration to Bangalore. I’m technically a Tam Bram and an Iyer to boot. I’ve met my mother’s relatives most of whom live or lived in Palakkad or Palghat. My dad’s relatives were spread out either in Chennai or in Bangalore and a few in between. Palakkad seemed the more “cool” place to be from. (I mean, which True Blooded Bangalorean will want to say his roots are in Chennai…). So now I was a certified Palakkad Tamil Brahmin Iyer and I couldn’t have behaved farther from the quintessential stereotype of the place if I tried. I was a beef eating, alcohol drinking, Bangalorean (Bengaluru”ean”?). It was also fun for me to say that I was born in Bangalore, part Malayali, part Tamil and mostly confused. Added to that fact that I studied in Baroda and married a Punjabi and that makes for some really interesting conversation… 

After a while though, through the humour I realised that I really wanted to know where I was from. I also wanted to have my own “Ooru” or “Natti” (Hometown). I did at that time do what i could have done years ago… asked my parents where we were from originally. I had half the story right. My mom’s family was from an Agraharam called New Kalpathy in Pallakad but, my Dad’s family was from a smaller agraharam (Brahmin’s quarters) called Pudugramam (New Village) in Kollangod. Interestingly, Kollangod was a stone’s throw from Palakkad and in the same district. The Agraharam’s were colonies of Tamil Brahmins who evidently migrated from Thanjavur district centuries back and set up replicas of their original village in other heterogeneous areas usually with a Shiva Temple at one end of a row of houses on either side of the street which was pretty much all that there was to the agraharam. Our Family Deity was “Kollangod Bhagavathi” in a temple at the end of the street. So now I knew…I had my roots. 

A couple of months back I was travelling back to Bangalore from Idukki district and noticed that my route took me past or reasonably close to Palakkad so I decided that it was now or never. I was going to track down the agraharam and the family temple. This seemed easier said than done. My dad had lived there for a month as a child with his Grandfather and that was it. So after asking almost the entire populace of Kollengod Town (now a sprawling urban centre) I tracked down Pudugramam. It was just as my father had said. One street with old houses on both sides, A massive tree at the entrance to the street with a small Ganesha temple below it. An old well as soon as you entered the street. It was literally a trip into the past. Where moments ago there was the noise of cars, auto rickshaws, horns, the bustle of a small town, shops and raunchy advertisements for Tantex underwear, Srilakshmi Silks and Gajalakshmi jewellers, there was now… well… nothing. The only concession to the modern age was an electricity line and one or two scooters to be seen. This could otherwise easily have been many years in the past. 

So I bravely set of to the end of the street where purportedly the family temple was situated. The temple existed but, it was a Shiva Temple, famous in its own right but, not the family temple… hmm what about the family house. After asking a few friendly people at the temple and back and forth calls to my Dad to get references to my Great Grandfather’s name and antecedents, I finally tracked down the house where a friendly pati (Grandmother) (Mrs. Murthy) who remembered my family still lived. She was the widow of “Coffee Murthy” who bought the house from my Grandfather when my family continued the migration closer to the large cities. Murthy Pati invited us in and showed me around the house and swore that she had not changed a thing since she moved into the house and was exactly the way it was when My Great Grandfather lived there. (Except perhaps for the reasonably new “Butterfly” stove top). The family temple was deciphered to be the “Meenkulathi Kaavu” in Pallasena about 5-6 km from there. Directions to the temple were simple now that i knew what I was looking for and I reached there in less than half an hour. I was evidently the first in our family (in the living generations) who had seen the temple. Wow! I came home and showed my parents the photographs and my Dad recalled and recognized a lot of the place including his Great Grandfathers house where he had spent a month of his Summer Vacation once almost half a century ago. 

A few months later someone asked me where I was from. I now had my answers. I answered “I was born in Bangalore, part Malayali, part Tamil. Added to that fact, I studied in Baroda and married a Punjabi girl and continue to live in Bangalore.”. It was important for me to know where my Parents were from. What went into their lives to make them what they are today and hence what I am today. However, my identity is grounded in the house I was born in or at least the house that i moved into when I was 2. The house whose construction I had witnessed when I was 1 even if I have little or no recollection of it at all. The house in which I had incessant fights, squabbles and fun times with my brothers, where I brought home a succession of girlfriends to meet my parents, where I came home in the vacations from Baroda when i was studying Architecture, threw crazy drunk parties when my parents were out of town and finally brought home my wife. The house where I live today and plan to bring up my children. Where my memories are intertwined with the ghosts of the past and the promise of the future. 

What I can call home. 

I had my roots.

Nalanda

A Brief Slice of Heaven
July 11th 2010

Laughter of many little children as they darted around us, shy smiles as we walked about with our camera’s photographing anything that moved, some heads bent over books memorizing their contents in classrooms, others tending to daily chores and everyone waiting for the Saturday evening screening of a Bollywood flick in one of the larger classrooms. No, I am not in a Residential Primary School but the Kagyu Nalanda Temple at Bylakuppe.

In July 2010, Sumita and I headed to Bylakuppe, a Tibetan settlement near Mysore for a photo vacation. Bylakuppe, surprisingly,  is said to be the largest Tibetan settlement outside of Tibet. I would have imagined either Dharmashala or Sikkim, the seats of His Holiness Dalai Lama or His Holiness Karmapa to be the largest.

Having previously, through some friends, received permission to stay within one of the monasteries we set out at around 9:00 AM. After multiple stops as is normal with us photo enthusiasts to shoot a view of a road, the landscapes and even a mango seller we finally reached Bylakuppe at around 2:00PM. Entering the settlement was quite overwhelming as we really believed we had reached Tibet sans the Himalayas. We received directions and reached the Kagyu Nalanda Monastery shortly and were received very graciously by Norbu Lama who would be our host for the next few days.

It is an interesting dichotomy to note that Nalanda, one of the oldest universities first instituted by King Ashoka in Bihar is now in Mysore and is the youngest of the Monasteries in this region. Not knowing what to expect, we quickly freshened up in the room accorded to us and made it in time for the afternoon prayers at 3:30 at their temple. As the chants began accompanied by the beats of the gongs and the horns of the trumpets the whole atmosphere within the temple seemed to reverberate with intense power and serenity at the same time. I am a self declared agnostic however, it is difficult for me to explain the tremendous sensation of peace I felt within the space. I was torn between photographing this moment and just sitting down and being a part of the moment.

The Kagyu Nalanda University is the youngest within the region and was founded by The Venerable Kalsang Rinpoche and his son Karma Rinpoche who is recognised by His Holiness the 17th Gyalwa Karmappa as the re-incarnation of Tulku Rigpe Dorje of the Nanduo monastery in Tibet. Work on the Monastery started in 2001 with the foundation of the Boddhisatva trust and was inaugurated in 2005 by His Holiness the 17th Karmapa. Kagyu Nalanda is neither as large or as grand as the neighbouring and older Namdroling (The Golden Monastery. Being young it has only 65 monks in training of which the majority are children starting from the age of 4. It was fascinating and humbling at the same time to watch the little monks go about daily life in the temple.

The day starts at 5:00AM with the morning prayers followed by breakfast at 7:00 am and the classes follow. After a break for lunch and the afternoon prayers at 3:30 they continue their classes till evening. After an early dinner at 7:00 you can hear the little children practising their lessons, prayers and chants. You can also hear them practising the prayer trumpets till well into 9:30 when all lights are doused and the temple sleeps. However, in all of this seemingly serious and disciplined routine you are still aware that these children are still children when they award you those fleeting smiles and shyly peep around corners to watch us walk by. There was also one child who shyly asked us if we would take one more photograph of him and then ran away when we lifted our cameras. If I didn’t know better I could have sworn we were in a Montessori albeit with a different uniform.

The children are taught early to care for the environment and every second Saturday is celebrated as environment day where they set out to clean the nearby villages with their own hands. It is lamentable that the lessons of the young monks are lost in our minds while we still persevere to soil the environment in every way we possible can. Watching the young monks do all of their own work including cooking, cleaning, sweeping and at the same time being children, Monks and Students at the same time taught me a huge sense of humility.

In the 2 nights and 3 days that we were there it felt like time had come to a standstill and all was right in the world. If the efforts of just 65 young monks can do this imagine the impact on the world if we can but share a few of their philosophies like living in peace and caring for your environment. Which God you believe in or not, is secondary. When we left, we were touched when the Monks draped a prayer shawl around us as a gift and wished us a good journey. I am sure that it will not be too long before we return there for another little slice of Heaven.

The one thing that rankled during our stay there was the fact that despite this being a Government of India Protected area, there is provision for only 8 hours of power in a day and that too mostly in the night and minimal water supply. It is sad that these basic necessities that most of us take for granted is not even close to being a priority by the local Govt. When will we begin to change or remove that sense of apathy that dictates the lives of most of us myself included.

I deeply appreciate the invitation extended by Karma Rinpoche to experience the Kagyu Nalanda way of life first hand and the enormous hospitality afforded us by Norbu Lama. Thank you.