Manang – Yak kharka
11th April 2023
Today for the 1st time in 8 days on a solo trip do I really know what it means to be truly alone.
We reached Yak Kharka, 10Kms away at about 4000m at 12:30 after 4.5 hours of walking.As we left Upper Manang via the ceremonial arch towards Tanki Manang (Little Manang), we had the locals sitting on their terraces watching all of us pilgrims off on our journey. Past Tanki Manang and we are truly in the wild. No connectivity, no jeep tracks, no motor vehicles.
Just raw, wild and sheer wilderness.
It’s like even the trees have given up at this altitude giving way to shrub and brush. The climbing is steep but steady with most of the elevation gain in the 1st 4 kms to Gunsang. On the trail, we meet the regulars, we huff and puff our way through our pleasantries, a few breathless jokes as we can start to feel the lack of oxygen in every step. The sharp and windless sunny day is welcome as our bodies warm up. At last, after 2 hours we reach Gunsang for tea and yak cheese. Sitting on the roof of the tea shop, sipping my tea, I’m truly lost. There is no wifi to distract me, no messages, no emails.
Just me and the mountains – a harsh teacher.
I’m still.
It’s been 30 minutes and I can’t remember what I was thinking about staring at the vast emptiness of the snow clad peaks and open brush lands. We head on to Yak Kharka along the “Nepali flats” to gain another 150m in altitude. It’s now scrub and brush only. Herds of Yak and Himalayan Blue sheep abound. We’re leaving behind the Annapurna and the Gangapurna and can see in the distance the triangular top of the Thorong Ri towards whose skirts we are destined to go.
It’s 6:30 in the evening. I’m sipping on hot water. Trekkers, guides, porters, all drifting into the warm common room – laughter, games, a guitar solo.
A shared goal amongst strangers.
I’m on my own and yet I’m not.
Yak kharka – Thorong Phedi
12th April 2023
I enter the dining room at 7:00am.
Gone are all the previous nights revellers. The wood fired stove lies cold.
It’s quiet
I sit as close to the cold stove as possible hoping that the memories of yesterdays warm fires will seep into my bones. Slowly the dining room starts to fill up. Most people are talking it easy because it’s a shortish climb. Only 7 odd kms today. We start at 8:30. I can feel the effects if the altitude now clearly in the effort it takes to put one foot in front of another. Deep ping breaths accompany each step. Climbing slow, real slow.
If you’re reading this, try and take long deep breaths with your mouth.
Inhale – Left foot Forward
Exhale – Right foot Forward
It’s a step per breath. That’s how slowly, I was climbing.
More Yak, more blue sheep and a few Himalayan Eagles dot the mountainside. With 3 kms to go, I am exhausted. I have serious doubts about my capability to climb the final ascent tomorrow. I’m playing various scenarios in my mind. We come in the last 1.5 kms to a sign that says “Step Lightly – landslide zone”. It’s a narrow, very narrow contour path stubbled with loose rocks. Walking very carefully, we finish that tricky 1km section and can see Thorong Phedi up ahead.
We’ve reached base camp.
Base Camp is not just a physical space but a mental zone
