Upper Pisang – Manang
April 9th 2023
In every epic war there is that one decisive battle that changes the course of the events that follow. The decisions made, the strategies applied, the outcome of that one day are all precursors to the end. For me, today was that day.
From Upper Pisang to Manang, there are two routes. Go down to Lower Pisang and use the jeep track or use the high trail via Ghyaru. I was fatigued and tired. Sorely tempted to take the easy route but, something told me to take the fight to the mountain. So up we went to climb the path to Ghyaru. Around 3.5kms from Upper Pisang, we crossed yet one more of the ubiquitous suspension bridges and there started my battle. A distance of a mere 1.65kms took me close to 1.5 hours. It was brutal and relentless. I cursed and I screamed. I looked longingly towards where the jeep track should have been but, I kept going up a step at a time till we finally reached the Ghyaru Monastery for a much needed break. The opening salvo had been fired and I was still standing.
Beyond Ghyaru lies the path to Ngawal which continues to climb albeit a little more gently. We were treated for our persistence to the most magnificent views of Annapurna 2, Annapurna 3, Annapurna 4, Pisang Peak and Gangapurna. Ngawal was a real surprise. It was like a high hidden pastoral valley with meadows, mountain sheep, the sound of cow bells everywhere. Such a different vista altogether. We stopped for lunch here. As we were waiting to be served it started to get bone chillingly cold and the winds picked up howling at us almost in anger that we dared to tread these lands. Hints of snow threatened.
At this point we again had a choice to make – The low path back to the jeep trail or take the higher path. Well, we had pushed this far, we weren’t going to cede the fight at this point so we took the higher ground and climbed further up and out of the valley till we reached an insanely steep descent to Julu. Baby steps with great trepidation it was. I was filled with doubt if I could make it down that precipitous single track not more than a foot and a half wide. A few timorous steps later, it hit me that the only thing really holding me back was my fear. So I let go. I decided to trust myself.
I came down quick, comfortably and without a misstep.
From Julu it was back on the jeep track for the next 7 kms to Manang.
I was spent
I had been on the road for 10.5 hours
I had walked 23 kms
But, I had won the battle.
And that is a precursor for the days to come.
Tomorrow is a rest day. I’ve found a wonderful cafe called Gyalu Bakery opposite the Alpine Home that makes the best Cappuccinos.
Enough said.
Manang – Rest and Acclimatisation
April 10th 2023
Manang is the base for everyone doing The Thorong La.
Cafés with espresso machines, Pizzas, Burgers, carrot cakes etc are on display here apart from the Circuit staples.
I woke up early to see the moon setting over Gangapurna and the sun rising above the streets of Manang slowly waking up. Toast, ham and eggs for breakfast got me ready to climb to the Chong Kor Viewpoint in front of the Gangapurna icefall as a short acclimation walk.
We passed the Gangapurna Glacial lake which is now dry because a recent landslide cut off access between the Glacial run off and the lake.
We spent almost 45 minutes on the top just soaking up the views on all sides and basking in the sun, catching up with almost all the others we had met on the trail so far. We heard a deep rumbling sound like massive continuous thunder. Great big chunks of ice were falling off the Gangapurna glacier. It was awe inspiring to watch from a great safe distance away.
In the evening, after a short nap I took a walk around town, watched the local kids drum up a friendly game of Volleyball, exchanged notes with others who were also setting out tomorrow morning. I’m feeling good, altitude wise, so we’re heading out to Yak Kharka tomorrow morning. This is the 1st phase of the 3 phase trek to the pass from Manang. We will finally be breaching the 4000m mark tomorrow and heading into Yak country. From all accounts, there is very limited connectivity from here on.
I attempt the pass on the 13th and should reach Muktinath that evening.
For now, I’m off to the cozy wood fire warmed common room for dinner.
Till then…
